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Manure in Composting

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When it comes to creating nutrient-rich compost for your garden, one of the most valuable (and readily available to many homesteaders) is manure (poop, or feces) from farm animals. It provides nitrogen, organic matter, and beneficial microorganisms that help create healthy soil. However, not all manures are created equal, and each type has its own set of benefits, precautions, and composting timelines. Below, we’ll delve into the most common types of farm animal manure—cattle, horse, goat, sheep, chicken, and other poultry—and how best to use them. We’ll also discuss safety concerns, especially for immunocompromised individuals.

Cattle/Cow Manure

Benefits

  • Balanced Nutrients: Cow manure is relatively balanced in nutrients (especially nitrogen and potassium).
  • Organic Matter: It contributes a significant amount of organic matter, which improves soil structure and moisture retention.

Composting Timeline

  • 6 Months Minimum: Raw cow manure is “wetter” and slightly lower in nitrogen compared to poultry manure, but it still needs to be composted for at least 6 months.
  • Frequent Turning: Turning the compost pile regularly helps it break down faster and reach pathogen-killing temperatures.

Safety and Usage

  • Weed Seeds: Cow manure may contain weed seeds if the animals grazed on seedy grasses. High composting temperatures (130–150°F) help neutralize these seeds.
  • Apply Only When Fully Composted: Fresh cow manure can contain pathogens (like E. coli) and too much nitrogen, which may burn plants. Always compost before adding to edible beds.

an image of composting manure by owlcreek.ca made in DALL-EHorse Manure

Benefits

  • Nutrient-Rich: Horse manure contains good levels of nitrogen and other nutrients.
  • Loamy Texture: It can help create a pleasant, crumbly soil texture when fully composted.

Composting Timeline

  • 3–6 Months: Because horses don’t digest their food as thoroughly, weed seeds may remain viable. Compost 3–6 months (or more) to kill seeds and reduce pathogens.

Safety and Usage

  • Weed Seed Considerations: Keep your compost pile hot (130–150°F) and turn it often to kill seeds.
  • Avoid Fresh Application: Like cow manure, horse manure should be composted to avoid burning plants and introducing pathogens to edible crops.

Goat Manure

Benefits

  • “Cooler” Manure: Goat manure is drier and somewhat lower in ammonia compared to poultry, making it less likely to burn plants.
  • Nitrogen Boost: It still offers a healthy dose of nitrogen and beneficial microorganisms.

Composting Timeline

  • 4–6 Months: Even though it’s cooler, compost goat manure for at least 4–6 months to ensure pathogen reduction and complete nutrient stabilization.

Safety and Usage

  • Easier Handling: Goat manure often comes in neat pellets, making it simpler to collect and add to compost.
  • For Edible Gardens: It’s safest to compost fully before use, especially if you’re growing food for immunocompromised individuals (see below).

Sheep Manure

Benefits

  • Similar to Goat Manure: Sheep manure is also relatively “cool,” easy to handle (pellets), and high in nutrients.
  • Good Soil Amendment: It improves soil structure while delivering key nutrients.

Composting Timeline

  • 4–6 Months: Like goat manure, compost until it’s crumbly and has an earthy smell.

Safety and Usage

  • Primarily for Edible Gardens: Always fully compost before using around vegetables or fruits.
  • Ornamentals: Small amounts of aged manure can occasionally be used around non-edible plants without thorough composting, but caution is still advised.

Chicken Manure

Benefits

  • High in Nitrogen: Chicken manure is considered “hot” due to its high nitrogen content. It can rapidly heat up a compost pile.
  • Rich in Phosphorus: Helps support root and fruit development in plants.

Composting Timeline

  • 6–12 Months: Because of the high ammonia content, chicken manure needs to be aged longer to prevent plant burn and reduce pathogens (like Salmonella).
  • Heat and Turn: Aim for sustained temperatures of 130–150°F, turning regularly.

Safety and Usage

  • Never Use Fresh: Raw chicken manure can carry pathogens and cause nitrogen burn in plants.
  • Thorough Composting Essential: Especially critical if you’re growing produce eaten by vulnerable populations (children, the elderly, immunocompromised).

Other Poultry Manure (Duck, Turkey, Geese)

Benefits

  • Similar to Chicken: High in nitrogen, beneficial for speeding up decomposition in compost.
  • Good Nutrient Profile: Often contain a balanced mix of other nutrients, too.

Composting Timeline

  • 6–12 Months: Treat as you would chicken manure, with the same emphasis on higher temperatures and regular turning.

Safety and Usage

  • Pathogen Risks: Like chicken manure, must be fully composted to kill pathogens.
  • Burn Potential: High nitrogen can also burn roots if used too soon.

What Manure is Potentially Unsafe?

  • Pig Manure: Pigs share many potential pathogens with humans (viruses, parasites). It requires very careful, high-temperature composting for an extended period. Many home gardeners avoid using pig manure on food crops altogether.
  • Dog & Cat Feces: Not farm animals, but worth noting—they can carry parasites (like toxoplasma) that are harmful to humans. Avoid composting these for edible gardens.

Is any Manure Safe to Add Directly to the Garden?

  • Rabbit Manure (though not on our main list) is often cited as safe to use fresh because it’s quite dry and relatively low in ammonia.
  • All Other (cow, horse, goat, sheep, chicken, turkey, etc.) should be composted to:
    1. Kill pathogens.
    2. Reduce the risk of burning plants.
    3. Destroy weed seeds (especially in horse manure).

If you absolutely must apply manure directly, do so on dormant beds or around perennial ornamentals in the off-season. However, the safest and most effective method to prepare manure for use is to compost thoroughly first.

Bedding Materials with Manure (Straw, Hay, Wood Shavings)

Bedding materials mixed with manure significantly influences how your compost pile behaves. These materials are primarily carbon-rich “browns,” which balance the nitrogen-rich “greens” (manure, kitchen scraps, fresh grass clippings).

Straw

  • What It Is: Straw is the stalk residue from cereal crops (like wheat) after the grain heads are harvested.
  • Pros: Fewer seeds than hay, provides excellent structure to the compost pile, helps aerate, and retains moisture without becoming overly dense.
  • Cons: If straw still has any leftover seeds, they can sprout in your compost. Chopping or shredding straw helps it break down more quickly.

Hay

  • What It Is: Hay is essentially dried grass or legumes harvested for animal feed and often includes seeds.
  • Pros: High in nutrients, can contribute trace minerals to the compost.
  • Cons: Often contains viable weed seeds that need to be neutralized through high-heat composting. It can also mat together if it gets too wet, reducing airflow.

Wood Shavings (or Wood Pellets)

  • What It Is: A by-product of woodworking, frequently used in stalls and coops.
  • Pros: Excellent carbon source, helps bulk up the compost pile, and can absorb excess moisture.
  • Cons: Wood shavings decompose slowly due to their dense structure. If you add too much at once, they can tie up nitrogen, slowing decomposition. It’s crucial to balance with plenty of manure (or other nitrogen sources). Also, avoid shavings from pressure-treated lumber or chemically treated wood.

Composting Tips with Bedding

  1. Maintain a Balanced Ratio: A general rule of thumb is about 30 parts carbon (bedding) to 1 part nitrogen (manures), by weight. If you see your pile isn’t heating up, you may need more “greens.” If it’s too hot or smells like ammonia, add more “browns.”
  2. Chop or Shred Bedding: Larger pieces of straw or dense mats of hay break down faster if you chop or spread them out in thin layers.
  3. Turn Frequently: Bedding can form dense layers that trap moisture or restrict airflow. Turning helps aerate the compost, mix materials thoroughly, and maintain even temperatures.
  4. Watch for Moisture: Wood shavings can soak up moisture quickly, while hay might clump if too wet. Aim for a “wrung-out sponge” moisture level.

A black compost bin filled with soil and organic waste sits beside a yellow wheelbarrow on the bare ground, curated by Owl Creek Farm.More tips for Successful Manure Composting

  1. Turn Your Pile
    Frequent turning aerates the pile, supports beneficial microbes, and helps reach pathogen-killing temperatures throughout.
  2. Monitor Moisture
    Keep the compost moist but not saturated. Soggy piles can become anaerobic (leading to foul smells and slow decomposition), while overly dry piles won’t heat up properly.
  3. Check Temperatures
    Use a compost thermometer to aim for 130–150°F (54–66°C). Maintaining this temperature for at least a few days helps kill harmful bacteria and weed seeds.
  4. Be Patient
    The “magic” of composting requires time. A minimum of 3–6 months for “cooler” manures (goat, sheep, horse) and up to a year for “hotter” manures (chicken, other poultry) is often recommended.

Special Considerations for Immunocompromised Individuals

For those with compromised immune systems (or caretakers growing food for them), it’s important to be extra vigilant about potential pathogens that may be present in manure—even if it has been composted.

  1. Fully Compost: Ensure the compost pile reaches at least 130–150°F (54–66°C) for a sustained period, typically several days to a week, and turn it regularly to kill pathogens throughout the pile.
  2. Allow Adequate Aging Time: Even after the pile has reached high temperatures, many experts recommend allowing the compost to cure for an additional 2–3 months to ensure any surviving pathogens are minimized.
  3. Wash Produce Thoroughly: Whether or not manure was used, washing all produce thoroughly with clean water is especially important for immunocompromised individuals.
  4. Cook When Possible: For maximum safety, cook your vegetables (e.g., blanch, roast, steam) if you are immunocompromised or if there’s any concern about contamination. Leafy greens, root vegetables, and other produce that might come into direct contact with soil can harbor pathogens if the manure is not fully composted.
  5. Consider Testing: If you’re extremely cautious, you can send a compost sample to a lab for testing of pathogens. This adds an extra layer of assurance.
  6. Practice Good Hygiene: Always wear gloves while gardening, and wash your hands thoroughly after handling compost or soil amended with manure.

For immunocompromised individuals, avoiding raw manure altogether and sticking to well-aged, high-quality compost is critical. If there is any doubt about the composting process, err on the side of caution by using commercially sterilized compost or avoiding home-composted manure for edible crops.

Most farm animal manures are fantastic additions to compost piles, providing nitrogen, organic matter, and beneficial microbes that build healthy, fertile soil. The main concerns are pathogens, weed seeds, and the “heat” or ammonia content that can burn plants if applied fresh. For this reason, almost all manures should be composted for at least several months before adding them to your garden, especially around food crops.

In short:

  • Cow and horse manure: Compost ~6 months; watch for weed seeds (especially horse).
  • Goat and sheep manure: ~4–6 months is typically sufficient; slightly cooler manures, but still best to compost thoroughly for safety.
  • Chicken and other poultry manure: High in nitrogen, needs 6–12 months; never apply fresh to food crops.
  • Check local regulations and guidelines if you are selling produce, as some areas have rules about how long manure must be aged before use in commercial gardens.
  • When in doubt, compost longer rather than shorter. Patience pays off with rich, safe, and beneficial compost for your garden.
  • Extra compost time and adherence to cleanliness and other considerations are especially important for immunocompromised individuals.

By following these guidelines, you’ll ensure that you’re getting all the benefits of manure—improved soil structure, vital nutrients, and a thriving garden ecosystem—without the risks. Happy composting and gardening!

Amy
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